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Copper Canyon Independent Traveler 2006

Travelogues

 Copper Canyon Independent Traveler Trip Mar.'06 (this page)    

Copper Canyon Group Tour |  Copper Canyon Rail Fan Tour  |   Copper Canyon Independent Traveler Trip'03  |  Copper Canyon Motorcycle Independent Traveler Trip'04   |  Copper Canyon Independent Travel Trip Jan.'06  |  Baja California Whale Watching   |   Yucatan Group Tour'04    |   Yucatan Group Tour'06

Dear Friends and Family:

We just returned from a week in Copper Canyon (Barrancas del Cobre), Mexico's version of the Grand Canyon. However, Copper Canyon (part of the Sierra Madres) is actually a series of canyons, five of which are deeper than the Grand Canyon!  The best way of seeing these canyons -- maybe the only way -- is via the Chihuahua al Pacifico Railroad ("Chepe" for short) which runs from Chihuahua in the north to Los Mochis on the west (a 12 hour train trip, but tourists are encouraged to stop at various train stations along the way).

The railroad, which goes from sea level to 8,000 feet, took 90 years to complete.  This engineering feat includes 39 bridges, 87 tunnels and a U-turn of 180 degrees inside a mountain.  The trains depart, from each end of the 396 mile railroad, at 6:00am.  The actual time when the train arrives at its final destination is another matter!  The trains seldom run on time.  Indeed, being an hour to an hour and a half late is common because of the terrain and problems with the tracks.  Much longer delays -- 8-10 hours or so -- may occur during the monsoon season when landslides cover the tracks.  Below is a picture of the tracks near the U-turn, where the track loops back on itself.

photo by Stokes Fishburne

The image below, taken from the train, shows a river meandering through the foothills of the Sierra Madre mountains.  The dark "stripes" are actually the shadows of the trestles that support the train track.  The horizontal shadow is the train itself.

photo by Stokes Fishburne

The scenery as you ride along on the train is nothing short of spectacular.  But, in addition to seeing mountains, lakes and canyons, you also see the people, their homes and the way they live.  Mexico is a poor country, with many people living at the  poverty level.  Like the man below, many people have to work very hard to scratch a living from the soil. 

photo by Stokes Fishburne

A couple of times we passed trains coming the other way that were loaded with recreational vehicles (RVs).  Pat had considered this mode of transportation to view the Copper Canyon, but Stokes was vehemently against it.  After talking to a couple on the RV train, Pat discovered that Stokes had been absolutely right!  The man told us that his motorhome had been scratched along one whole side because it had been incorrectly loaded onto the flat car.  The woman said that the dust was so bad that the inside of the motorhome was filthy (she said it would take her a month to clean it) and the "slide-outs" were so caked with dirt that they would hardly move.

Photo by Stokes Fishburne

Photo by Stokes Fishburne

We, together with two other couples, began our trip in Los Mochis (the best way to ensure that you see the canyons during  the daylight hours).  After an eight hour train ride, we arrived in Divisadero.  We stayed at the Hotel Posada Mirador, on the rim of the canyon.  The views from the hotel were spectacular!

 The colossal stone monuments that surround the hotel were raised by a violent volcanic upheaval. The day after we arrived, we rather ambitiously, decided to take three hikes -- a sunrise hike, a hike to some homes of the Tarahumara Indians and a hike three canyons over.  In all, we hiked about 8 miles that day!  Below is a picture of the view from one of the canyon overlooks.

Photo by Stokes Fishburne

There are about 50,000 Tarahumara living throughout the mountains.  These people live in this rugged environment much as their ancestors did, making plows from the oak trees, using plants for food, medicine and fiber and beating drums to communicate from village to village. Unfortunately, some of their best lands have been appropriated and, as a result, they have suffered from hunger and deprivation.  Nevertheless, most of them cling to their traditional culture.  The women are skillful basket makers and sell their wares to tourists.  Below is a collection of baskets, blankets, beads, belts and dolls that one Tarahumara woman had for sale.

Photo by Stokes Fishburne

The Tarahumara women wear very bright, traditional clothes.  Most, however, have replaced their traditional footwear with shoes that while they still have fiber thongs now have soles made of rubber tires. The Tarahumara woman shown below had one of the choice sales spots on the front steps of the Mirador Hotel.

Photo by Stokes Fishburne

We were advised to bring items such as thread, needles and cloth for the Tarahumara women and pens, pencils and balls for the children.  The little girl below is fascinated by a green pen we gave her.

Photo by Patricia Fishburne

Our next "friends and family" email takes you along with us to the small town of Cerocahui and the Urique Canyon, the deepest of the canyons.

As we told you in our previous "friends and family" letter, we journeyed to Copper Canyon in Mexico.  We were accompanied by Bob and Susan Cote (Stokes worked with Bob at TRW in California), Don and Marlene Driscoll (we met them on a Monaco rally in 2002) and Carlos Granados, our wonderful guide. Below is a picture of the seven of us.  By the way, our trip was arranged by S&S Tours, whom we heartily recommend.

Stokes, Fishburne and Driscoll

 After leaving the Mirador hotel in Divisadero, we re-boarded the train for a two hour ride to Bahuichivo.  From there we took a very bumpy van ride and arrived, more than a little disheveled, at the Mission Resort Hotel in the village of Cerocahui. The entry to this small, 42 room, hotel is shown below.

Photo by Stokes Fishburne

Across from the hotel is the St. Francis Xavier Mission Church, a 300 year old Jesuit mission for the Tarahumara Indians.  Nearby, is a boarding school for 80 Tarahumara girls.  Every morning, when the church bells pealed, the girls  came running to mass.  One day we toured the school and were impressed to discover that, in addition to learning their lessons, the children were actively engaged in cleaning the school, the kitchen and so forth.  Our guide told us that many Tarahumara parents send their children to boarding schools such as this so that they will get three meals a day.

Photo by Stokes Fishburne

Photo by Patricia Fishburne

One night, we got a spectacular image of a sunset.  Well, okay, it wasn't spectacular until Pat "photoshopped" out three sets of power lines!

Urique Canyon, the deepest of the canyons at 6,136 feet (compared to 4,674 for the Grand Canyon), was a very bumpy, one hour ride by van from Cerocahui. But, the views were worth it.  Below is the view from the Urique Canyon overlook.

Photo by Patricia Fishburne

On the way up to the overlook, we passed this very picturesque farm nestled at the foot of the mountains.

Photo by Patricia Fishburne

Photo by Stokes Fishburne

Before going to Mexico, we had heard about the "banditos" -- but we were not prepared for this! He sure looks a lot like Stokes, doesn't he?  And how about that mustache (a  horseshoe that Stokes balanced precariously on his upper lip)?     As you can see, we definitely enjoyed our trip.  But, we hasten to add that there is a bit of a learning curve.  The first time you see the sign, "deposit lightly soiled toilet tissue in the waste basket rather than the toilet," you know  you are no longer in Kansas!  Moreover, much as we love Mexican food, we were glad to get back to our simpler, less caloric meals.